Art Jewelry Community

Saving the planet one bead at a time

Maureen724 — Fri, 13 Nov 2009 03:08:20 GMT

My new obsession: creating bead bracelets from recycled materials found around the house. We're selling these and donating 10% to non-profits that support environmental causes.

Please let me know what you think by visiting my website at www.reemoe.com.

Thanks,

Moe

any substitute for a graver

Aspin — Thu, 19 Nov 2009 00:15:25 GMT

I noticed that the price of gravers are quite high and they seem to wear fast. Any substitue tool for a graver that might not be so expensive. Maybe something at Home Depot or someplace like that?

Working with cheap wire

BobR — Thu, 19 Nov 2009 22:51:01 GMT

I'm just starting out playing around with wire and until I get some experience I'm not using silver wire.

Today I was playing around with some BeadSmith 20 ga silver wire, which has a silver colored coating on copper.

First, what is the actual metal used for the silver coating? Whatever it is, its so thin, it wears off very easy at bends even when using nylon covered pliers.

If I spend the effort to make something with wire like this, how does it actually hold up in use. I'm concerned that copper is too soft and will easily pull out of shape. I'm makling a necklace with around 16 spiral loops each one about .75" that will be connected with jump rings.

Help with Fingerprint Jewelry

AMBER — Fri, 20 Nov 2009 17:33:41 GMT

Hello-

I am new to PMC, though I have taken a few classes. I bought a torch and a hot pot to try out as I dont have the money to buy a kiln right now. Salary cut at work has limited my spending on hobby supplies :-(

Anyway, I have an 18 month old and want to attempt to make some fingerprint jewelry. I have seen it all over the internet and I figure I can make my own as opposed to spending when I dont have the money to do so.

I want to clarify that I am taking the correct steps:

I need to roll out my clay, cut my shape out and then have little one imprint her finger.

Let dry, refine and fire Oh, if I want to put her name on it, do you all recommend stamping the clay while its wet OR after its fired? Also, I am looking for some scrolly and nice cursive metal letter stamps. I love the ones on beaducation.com but they are little bit out of my price range, Does anyone have any other recommendations of where to buy some?

Also, I am assuming you then use LOS to highlight the area where the print is and then polish the rest off?? I have also seen what looks like the imprints where they shrink down a palm print or foor print and maybe use a PPP method to make a plate and then stamp it on the clay? OR is there an easier way to achieve this look? Does anyone know where to purchase the inkless wipes for this type of project?

Any tips would be sooo appreciated and helpful to me. I just want to make a keepsake of my daughter to enjoy and put my PMC to good use.

Many thanks,

Amber

Silver on bronze? Firing help.

ahronya — Wed, 14 Oct 2009 08:09:56 GMT

1. I was wondering if a fired piece of bronze clay can be painted or plated with silver paste and then fired again?

2. Also, where can I find specific firing schedules for Copper and Bronze Clay? I can find adequate ones for silver Artclay and silver PMC.

3. And could a piece of copper or bronze be fired in a kiln that may go only as high as 1550? could it be fired longer at a lower temp? I think I found that it needs about 1700, but again, I'd like to get more info on this! And what is the absolute smallest bin of charcoal that could be used? 5" x 5" x 3" high?

Thank you all! This site is great!!

Just a Little Different

Bentiron — Mon, 16 Nov 2009 17:02:44 GMT

Here is something just a little different http://www.carlstanleyjewelryarts.com/id1.html

Hi everyone

Cathy At The Beach — Mon, 16 Nov 2009 23:44:42 GMT

Hi to all of you!

I love to work with silver and I also make lampwork beads and cabachons.

I've been torching glass for about 3 years and silver smithing for only about 6 months now. I am addicted!

I have a studio at Winnipeg Beach- located about an hour north of Winnipeg Manitoba- along the shores of Lake Winnipeg. (about 3 hours north of Fargo ND)

Looking forward to participating in this lovely forum!

Cathy

Art Resource

ArtsandCollections — Thu, 19 Nov 2009 16:43:25 GMT

For those of you who are passionate about art and need a valuable art resource centre at hand visit:

www.artsandcollections.com

This website continually updates its auction listings and cultural events listings. Auction listings include top auction houses like Christies and Sothebys. Ancient jewelery auctions are always being posted on the site so keep your eyes peeled!

Enjoy.

Flux

Howey — Thu, 19 Nov 2009 17:12:44 GMT

Hello

Im intrested in making ring solder fine silver, sterling silver cup onto ring, and to able solder copper. (sterling, fine silver and copper)

Im bit confued to what best flux for partilcer metal high and low temp (kitchen hand torch).

can you help to what type of solder wires best for jewerelly making espcailly rings

how many basic brands names was there for jewerelly making of solder and fluxes?

beginner

Gillian

Santa Barbara City College

Bentiron — Thu, 19 Nov 2009 20:12:01 GMT

I found a link to SBCC and it looks like registration for jewelery classes begins early in December, here is the link: http://omni.sbcc.edu/adulted/ . Brian Meek is one of the teachers, think Frankenbench. ( http://www.alberic.net/Toolbox_Index/Toolbox_Index.html )

Merry All the Time (Hollow Bead)

shaktipaj — Fri, 13 Nov 2009 22:21:07 GMT

I had a commisioned trade with a friend fro this one - she gave me free rein and lots of time - I'm very glad she did! I was stuck after the two halves in the second shot, and it took me a while to work out what I wanted for the center, as well as how to achieve it.

The finished bead is 2.25in. by 1.0 in. - a larger focal. She wants me to 'cook' it -that means an LOS treatment, LOL. I think that is a good idea - more detail and drama in the piece. The photos are quick 'n dirty, plus I was trying out a weird grainy texture, almost newsprinty. I'll stick to the basics next time....

So anyway - any thoughts or questions?

Perri

New to LA - Help!

lajewel — Thu, 19 Nov 2009 15:40:03 GMT

Hi There - I just moved to Los Angeles from New York and feel lost about where to go for jewelry resources. Specifically, can anyone recommend: 1) the best findings store! I loved Metalliferous in New York. Is there anything like that here? 2) A good and cheap electro-platers Thanks!!!

Creating an image

goldagent — Wed, 04 Nov 2009 17:32:12 GMT

I am currently in the process of starting a jewelry company and I need to create an image. So far I can only think of :

Name, Font, Logo, Hallmark, can anyone here add to the list? I feel like im forgetting something very important

To wear or not to wear?... - ethical question

BeBelle — Fri, 13 Nov 2009 20:11:54 GMT

Need to ask your advice. Here is the situation:

I can't (yet!) make living from making my jewelry, so my daytime job is in a big corporation. Girls at work are my main customers: I do custom orders and holiday jewelry shows in a conference room.

Now, here is the question: I see the best way of marketing my jewelry is for me to wear it. But if I wore it myself, I feel awkward selling it after to someone. If I don't wear it, people don't see it and don't know about it! All my items are one of a kind, so it's not like I can wear a sample and have more of the same for sale.

What would you do? Appreciate your thoughts.

Tatiana at

www.bebelledesign.com

Beginner needs help with tools

LittleChickadee — Wed, 18 Nov 2009 20:56:59 GMT

I am so confused by watching all the videos and reading about soldering. I guess what I am confused on is what is really needed. I bought some flux but unsure if it is the right one, it is this one: http://www.contenti.com/products/soldering/510-824.html. Is that the right flux? In one video the woman did not flux her sterling, she was using solder paste. In the other video the man used wire solder and dipped his sterling in a Boric Acid/denatured alcohol solution. I know that paste has flux already in it, but I am still confused on why she did not dip hers in the solution. And why did he use the boric acid/denatured alcohol solution and not flux? Why did they do it differently?

I already have copper wire and am thinking about getting sterling silver wire. I know that they do not make copper solder and the link will show but copper is alot cheaper to start with and I already have it. Is there anyway to get around seeing the solder on copper? I prefer the look of sterling, but like I said above copper is cheaper and I already have it.

I read that for jump rings, easy paste and easy wire solder is best. And for everything else hard is best. Is this correct?

Here is the list of supplies I have already got. Is this everything?

Torch

Pickle

Pickle Pot

Copper Tongs

Solder Tweezers

Self locking Tweezers

Quench Cup

Fire Block

Flux

Sorry for all the questions, I want to make sure I have everything correct before I start.

Thanks!

Jennifer

Looking for Instructions for ...

Rick_B — Sat, 31 Oct 2009 00:27:37 GMT

I'm a new to much of this - teaching myself by reading a lot - and am looking for detailed instructions for the following; 1. how to make a bezel for a flat stone that leaves both the front and back exposed (e.g., no back plate included)? It seems to me it would be quite tricky applying pressure to round over the bezel wire on the the front side without pushing the stone through the back side. Is that only possible by using a "step bezel"? 2. How does one actually make use of a step bezel? 3. Also need to secure attachment points on the side of a bezel (something like a half of a jump ring?) in order to link multiple 'bezeled' stones together with jump rings as in a bracelet. My concern is using a torch to solder these attachment points after the bezel and stone (or wood, or gems, etc.) is assembled.

I've seen bezeled stone bracelets with linked segments like this in recent journal galleries and would like to learn how to do it. (My wife is waiting, so the pressure is on.) Any source of instruction for doing these things would be greatly appreciated.

iolite ring after LOS + another one

IzaMalczyk — Sat, 21 Jul 2007 10:05:45 GMT

I did it, I've oxidised the ring... Royal Denim looked like that before LOS:

now it looks like that:

But I made another ring today, it's called the Poseidon's Eye and it's aquamarine and labradorite in S&F silver.

I like it, I must admit, and I don't now why I've been so reluctant to make rings...

Thank you :)

Black pearl triangle

cicigabeltang — Mon, 23 Jul 2007 05:37:10 GMT

Hi everyone, Nice to have this forum to meet you girls/guys. I was so exciting last night and read through all your works and many linked website! Very impressive!

This is a charm made from fine silver and a black pearl. At the beginning I just wanted to make use of some silver scrap and a black pearl in hand. Then I came out this idea to make a cufflink for my husband. Later on I found it looks better in my bracelet.

I feel the work is still very rough, anyway I like the combination. Welcom to give your comment. Thanks!

Work hardening wire: buying chasing hammer: flat face or rounded? rubber bench block?

Keith R — Wed, 18 Nov 2009 18:46:02 GMT

I've decided to start wireworking. I've already bought a rawhide mallet and a good steel bench block. I've read the debates here about using a "chasing" hammer versus a "planishing" hammer. I read on some websites that using the chasing hammer for what I've seen a lot of instructors use it for is a "misuse," or for "beginners." Even the Fretz chasing hammer practically has a disclaimer not to use it for what they know wire workers are going to buy it for. Considering the authors of every book I own and the instructional videos I've seen on websites like this say to use a "chasing," hammer I guess I will try the hardware store trick and mirror finish my own ACE hammer for lots of use. I'm very handy with tools.

The debate I'm having with myself is whether I'm supposed to buy one with a slightly "rounded" working face or a flat one. I see some authors insist on a rounded primary face, but I've also seen the vast majority of the hammers being sold with a "flat" working face and the majority of posters hear say they use a "flat" face. Also, I'm a little fuzzy now on whether I should keep this face mirrored and smooth or slightly marred like I've seen other posters here state as their preference.

One more thing: The books and websites say to use preferably a rawhide or plastic mallet with the steel bench block for work hardening wire. I do see some "rubber" bench blocks advertised for non-marring while working hardening your wire. I haven't seen anyone using these though. I've only seen maybe once (I think on fusion beads.com)someone using that special bench block with the rubber suction base and the nylon insert for this purpose. Preferences and advice please?

Need help understanding metals and resins

babbe — Wed, 18 Nov 2009 22:31:49 GMT

Hello,

I am new to this forum. I don't know much about jewelry making. I hope on this forum that i can get some answers for my jewelry research. Apart from stones used in high end fashion jewelry making, what metal & resin materials are used to construct high end victorian style fashion jewelry such as Sorrelli, Michal Negrin and Orly zeelon jewelry?

Pet safety: butane torch soldering fumes

Keith R — Thu, 12 Nov 2009 20:28:59 GMT

Does anyone here have any pets? I have small birds and a rabbit. I live in a small apartment, which is the reason I haven't bought a kiln or torch items. I do not use teflon cookware because it can release PTFE's into the air which kill birds. I have been teetering on the idea of buying a small butane torch for small finding work, but I have a fear the fumes, even if well ventilated could harm or kill my pets.

I would only be using the torch to make small items like copper head pins anyway. I've noticed the copper head pins I see online have that shiny foil like finish but if the torch is too dangerous I'll just buy the head pins and findings. If the foil like luster is all I can get out of just a torch alone then I'll probably drop the whole idea since the risks may not be worth it. Thanks for any information.

What could I make with these

jpwjewelry.com — Tue, 21 Jul 2009 03:49:01 GMT

We have sold lots of these, and only have a few left so I was thinking of making something with them but I have no idea what I could make other then a necklace as there are so large. Any suggestions I would be greatful for.

Jelly roll gaps

BobR — Tue, 17 Nov 2009 04:36:41 GMT

I've done millefiori rolls before, but from assembling strips and rolling them, but I never did a jelly roll. My first one seemed to be ok, but now I find there are gaps in it, before the two layers I used have not bonded, leaving an air gap.

I'm wondering if this is failure to bond because some of the clay I used is old, or whether I should have rolled the two layers with a brayer before rolling, or if my technique is wrong.

Greetings

Mrs M — Mon, 16 Nov 2009 19:21:20 GMT

My name is Sue, I live in the south of England at the mo.

I started beading earlier this year, I wanted to do a hobby that was not card making!! Not that card making is a bad thing. I found a fatastic craft shop and started beading at the work shop .....its all history from then, I'm nowhere near brilliant but not doing too bad. I've knitted a beaded bag, made various braclets an necklaces, and even a bauble decoration. My next challenge is earrings and starting some wire working.

I love beading, it's so addictive and challenging. Any help and ideas will be greatfully appreciated.

quench designs - what do you think?

quenchdesigns — Tue, 17 Nov 2009 00:36:23 GMT

hi there

i am a new forum member as of about 12 seconds ago!

i am looking for support, ideas, tips and inspiration on how to launch my career as a jewelry-art creator.

this is my site www.quenchdesigns.com - what do you think?