Hello All! I need some help today on finding something I read in a book that helps slow the cooling process for enamel. Can't remember the name of book but I read that you can buy something that looks like gravel in a pan that slows the cooling process after heating enamel on metal.

Currently I use my little torch with the metal piece on a tripod, when the enamel melts to the right look then I move the piece to my solderite board. Sometimes this works fine sometimes it doesn't work, which means the enamel shatters, sending tiny shards on the board, ruining the work.

There is probably a simple answer to this problem but I have tried googling several things and can't find the answer, hoping someone here knows what is happening or knows the elusive name of the gravel substance.

Thanks in advance!!

Tink 

I think what you are referring to is an annealing pan filled with chunks of pumice. I bought mine through RIO, but I imagine you can get this from most jewelry supply companies.  I hope this is of help to you.

Peggy

Thank you Peggy for the help! Reading my post again I am very surprised that someone could actually determine what I was trying to say. I never even considered pumice stone in an annealing pan, wonder if it works with enamel? Someone else pointed me toward Pinzart which recommends using vermiculite in a crock pot so now I have a couple of things to try.

Best, Tink

Hi there, probably you already fund the answer to your question, but being a enamel lover myself, I thought it was a pitty if your pieces where still getting ruin. This is what I have learned so far:

   Usually the enamel start to crack when you are fireing the last layers, and you are right because it cools off to quickly, the only way I have found to avoid this is aplying a layer of enamel to the back of the piece we called Contremally, meaning "contra enamel" I don't know the right english terminology for that.

So here is how I do it:

 After washing the enamels with destilated water, I keep the dirty water from it in a container, when the residue of the enamel sits, I through out the excess water, living this residual enamel moistured like a paste.

I apply the regular enamel by layers, so when I have my fist crack after the first, second or third fireing (it doesn't matter) I turn the piece over, I apply then a layer of glue with a broch (made by mixing hot water with some seeds and letting it thicken overnight) and finally the "Contremally" (that paste I was talking about) with  a small spatula. Then, I put the piece over the radiator to dry. Once it is dry, I turn it over and apply my next layer of enamel (over the cracked one) and fire it as normal but this time I put the piece over a small base of nikel not to ruin my net. After the piece is done, you can choose to clean the back with your dremmel or you can make a bessel and set the piece living it like it is, (some people like it because the piece is heavier).

I hope that wasn't too confusing.

Good luck!

Thank you for the response! As a matter of fact, the vermiculite & a crock pot have solved the cracking issue so I am good there but your notes on counter-enameling are interesting. Using the dregs from the enamel washing as a paste is something I will try. I am always looking for a way to save money. Thanks!

Tink, Not counter enameling or not enough layers of counter enameling, applying too thick of a layer of enamel, not using compatible enamels, cooling the piece too fast and warping will all cause the enamels to craze or crack off. Sometimes this can happen days later. Billie