Having a devil of a time making bracelets in what I think of (probably incorrectly or simplistically) as the "Navajo style". 

 In it's simplest form, I'd describe it as 3 or more half-round wires, the outer wires bent in an arc at the top of the wrist to hold a bezel-set stone, with the wires soldered together at either end of the bracelet.

My problem is stupid and basic:  I have trouble making the arcs symmetrical, and even more trouble making the  ends align perfectly so that they can be neatly joined.   I wind up overworking the wire and wasting a lot of time.

How do real silversmiths do this?  Are you using a form, or bending around pins set in the correct pattern, or saying magic incantations?   How do you account for the "springback" of the wire when it is released from the bending force?  And how do you keep the wire from twisting?
 

THANKS!

jon
 

I use incantations a lot and if that doesn't work then curses. Sometimes I need to call in the Shaman to get things right again with a Healing Way Sing. Half round was always difficult to work with so I gave up and went to round. It is a lot easier to work with and always, well almost, lays flat. I usually just draw one side of the arc and then make the two wire match the drawing. If I'm using big round wire I run it through the rolling mill and make it some what flat. If it has to much spring try annealing it. I gave up "Navajo" style jewelry in the late 70's because I figured it was their style not mine. I need my own style. Much more fun, much less money.

> I gave up "Navajo" style jewelry in the late 70's because I figured it was their style not mine. >I need my own style. Much more fun, much less money

Thanks for the suggestion! I'll try some round, and anneal anneal.  I've no press, so no help there. 

At this early point in my development, I've learned the peril of trying my own "style".  As a rank beginner, I have no idea what's impossible/difficult, and my most original designs have inevitably been my most disastrous.

 jon
 

I have made several similar bracelets.  I finish the soldering with the wire flat.  After it is done (filing ends, etc) I bend it over a bracelet mandrel.  If you want to do very many of these, get a mandrel and a raw-hide mallet.

BTW - I use half-round wire with the curved side up, flat side to the wrist. 

Lots of luck with your project.

First and foremost, do make sure that your wire is annealed. There have been countless times over the years I've bought wire listed as "dead soft" that arrives no where near that condition. Fortunately it's fairly simple to solve that problem by annealing the wire. It's best to make them flat then use a mandel, if you don't have a metal one a fair sibstitute is a softball bat, preferably wooden. I use one in addition to my oval mandel as it helps me fit curves that are otherwise hard to get.

If you like making jewelry in the Indian style, you might look for a book called Indian Jewelry Making by Oscar T. Branson. While it is not a full step by step tutorial for jewelry making it is fairly well illustrated and does show many of the techniques and loads of tools, especially the hand made ones. It gives a nice insight on showing jewelry work of quality that really can be "done" on the the cheap.

Good Luck and hope that helps

If you decide to get a bracelet mandrel,  get an oval, stepped one with a tang.  An oval one is shaped oval rather than round, and I think that is how most bracelets are shaped, and look and feel better on.  A stepped one has different sizes of circumference.  One with a tang has a piece on the end so you can insert it in a holder, or clamp it on your bench.  The metal mandrel will run you about $40 which would run about the same as the first bracelet you make on it.  Another possibility is to find a used one on eBay.  The metal ones are almost indestructible so finding a used one might be your best course, if it has not been abused.

Hi Folks,

 Yes, I'm using a mandrel - made it myself.  My wife's wrist is luckily the exact circumference of a size of pvc pipe.  Lightly torched the pipe, and squashed it into a close oval approximation of the real model.

I'm already joining all the wires while the bracelet is flat, before I use the mandrel.  I'm just so lousy at bending them flat that I cant' get the ends to line up.  Well I can ultimately, but it's not a pretty process, and pollutes the air with bad language.

THANKS  all of you for your suggestions.  I'll check out the book.

 

I was just looking at your bracelet in the gallery and I don't see that you are having to much of a problem. Nice work.